Why edge banding?
Cut edges of sheet goods show the bare core, the plies of plywood, the porous fiber of MDF, or the chips under a melamine face. Edge banding is a thin strip (iron-on with hot-melt glue, pre-glued, or veneer) that covers that edge. It looks finished, protects the core from knocks and moisture, and is the difference between a homemade and a factory look.
Applying it step by step
- Cut the band a little longer and wider than the edge.
- Heat it on. Run a household iron (medium heat) along iron-on banding to melt the glue, pressing as you go.
- Press it down with a block or roller while the glue is still warm, so it bonds fully.
- Trim the overhang flush with an edge trimmer or a sharp chisel/knife, working with the grain to avoid lifting.
- Ease the edges with a light sanding so they are smooth to the touch.
Allow for the band thickness
Banding adds a little to the finished size, and where you cut a panel to receive banding the cut size is slightly smaller than the finished size. Set the band thickness once and let the tool correct the cut size, so your banded panels come out exactly to size.
Which edges?
Band the edges that show: the front edges of shelves, the visible sides of a carcass, the top of a door. Hidden edges (the back, edges against a wall) can be left bare. Banding every edge wastes material and time.
Account for banding automatically. In cutlistlab you mark which edges get banding per part, and the cut size is adjusted so the finished panel comes out to size, free, no account.
Frequently asked questions
What kind of edge banding should I use?
Iron-on banding is easiest for DIY, in melamine, wood-decor or veneer to match. Match the band to the face material.
Does edge banding change my cut sizes?
Slightly, the band adds thickness, so the cut size is a touch smaller. Set the band thickness and the tool corrects it.
Which edges do I need to band?
Only visible edges, shelf fronts, visible sides, door tops. Leave hidden edges bare.