The materials in short
| Material | Strength | Finish | Moisture | Price | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plywood | High, stiff | Clean edge possible, has grain | Fair to good (depends on grade) | High | Cabinets, furniture, visible work |
| MDF | Medium | Even, smooth, ideal for paint | Sensitive (unless moisture-resistant) | Medium | Painted fronts, trim, interior parts |
| Particleboard | Lower | Rough, usually faced with melamine | Sensitive (unless moisture-resistant) | Low | Budget cabinets, hidden work |
| Melamine board | Lower to medium | Ready-made white or wood decor | Facing helps, core stays sensitive | Medium | Cabinet interiors, shelves |
| OSB | High (structural) | Coarse, industrial look | Sensitive (unless treated) | Low | Sheathing, structure, rugged look |
| Hardboard | Thin, stiff in plane | One smooth side | Sensitive | Low | Back panels, drawer bottoms |
| Underlayment plywood | High | Flat, fine surface | Good | Medium | Subfloors, flat substrate |
| Film-faced plywood | High | Smooth, waterproof film | Very good | High | Forms, work surfaces, outdoors |
Below, in short, what each material is good at and what to watch for.
Plywood
Plywood is made of thin veneers glued crosswise on top of each other. That makes it strong, stiff and good at holding screws. Birch plywood has a dense, attractive edge you can leave exposed, which makes it popular for visible furniture. Note: plywood has a grain on the outer layer, so for a clean look you run visible parts in the same direction. Moisture resistance depends on the glue and the species (okoumé and pine also come in exterior-grade versions).
MDF
MDF is pressed wood fiber: even, grain-free and dead flat. It routs, profiles and paints beautifully, so for smooth sprayed fronts and molding it is the favorite. Downsides: it is heavy, the edges are porous (edge banding or primer needed) and standard MDF swells when wet. In a bathroom or kitchen, choose moisture-resistant MDF (often colored green).
Particleboard and melamine board
Particleboard is pressed wood chips: cheap and nicely flat, but less strong and sensitive to moisture. You rarely see it bare; usually it carries a decorative facing. That is called melamine-faced board (or simply melamine board). The facing is finished straight away (white or a wood decor), scratch-resistant and needs no paint, which makes it ideal for cabinet interiors and shelves. The core stays moisture-sensitive, so keep cut edges clean and band them.
OSB
OSB (oriented strand board) is built from large, oriented wood strands. It is structurally strong and cheap, with a recognizable rugged look that some people use on purpose for an industrial interior. For fine visible furniture it is less suitable; for sheathing, substrates and sturdy cabinets it is excellent.
Hardboard, underlayment and film-faced plywood
Hardboard is thin and hard with one smooth face, perfect for cabinet backs and drawer bottoms. Underlayment plywood is a flat, moisture-resistant sheet for subfloors. Film-faced plywood has a smooth, waterproof film; originally for concrete forms, but also great for rugged work surfaces and outdoor projects.
Which to pick for…
- A cabinet or piece of furniture: 3/4 in (18 mm) plywood or melamine-faced board for the carcass; 1/4 in (6 mm) hardboard or plywood for the back.
- Smooth, painted doors or fronts: MDF, moisture-resistant in wet rooms.
- Shelves: 3/4 in (18 mm) for wide shelves (to prevent sagging), 1/2 in (12 mm) for short spans.
- A countertop or workbench: plywood or film-faced plywood; film-faced wipes clean easily.
- Moisture or outdoors: exterior-grade plywood, underlayment or film-faced plywood; never standard MDF or particleboard.
- Budget and hidden: particleboard or OSB.
Which thickness?
As a rule of thumb:
- 3/4 in (18 mm): cabinet carcasses and shelves, countertops.
- 1/2 in (12 mm): lighter cabinets and short shelves.
- 1/4 in (6 mm): back panels and drawer bottoms.
- 1/8 in (3 mm): hardboard backs and thin dividers.
Go straight from material to cut list. In the free cutlistlab tool you pick your material and sheet size, enter your parts, and get a cutting plan with the least waste right away, including how many sheets you need. No account, works on your phone at the bench.
From choice to cutting plan
Picked your material? Put your parts into a cut list and work out how many sheets you need. The optimizer nests them with the least waste and accounts for the saw kerf.
Frequently asked questions
Which is stronger: plywood or MDF?
Plywood is stronger and stiffer and holds screws better; MDF is even and ideal for painting but heavier and more moisture-sensitive. Load-bearing or visible: plywood. Smooth painted fronts: MDF.
Which sheet material is cheapest?
Usually particleboard, then OSB. Melamine-faced board is a little more but comes pre-finished. Plywood (especially birch) is the most expensive.
Which sheet material handles moisture?
Standard MDF and particleboard do not. Choose moisture-resistant MDF/particleboard, or better still plywood, underlayment or film-faced plywood. Outdoors: exterior-grade plywood or film-faced plywood.
What thickness of sheet material for a cabinet?
3/4 in (18 mm) for carcass and shelves, 1/2 in (12 mm) for light cabinets, 1/4 in (6 mm) or 1/8 in hardboard for backs and drawer bottoms.