Drawers, doors and hardware

Metal drawer sides

In Drawer box and slides, use Drawer type to choose Wooden box or Metal sides. The metal version uses Hettich AvanTech YOU H101 with Actro YOU L and Silent System. The app automatically selects the longest catalogue length that fits (270 to 600 mm). H101 needs at least 102 mm clear height per drawer. Suitable straight front drawers may be overlay or inset, including a mixture in one cabinet. For inset fronts, the runner and box move back by the front thickness, leaving less depth for the system length. Hettich specifies this for inset fronts (Cadro assembly instructions, Actro YOU). The configured front gap still applies. Push opening and cabinet grip profiles are not available for this combination.

With metal sides, you cut only the bottom, wooden back and visible front. The bottom and back must be 16 mm thick. Select their finish from suitable materials using Bottom material and Back material. Wooden sides, the separate inner front and previous runners are omitted. Your wooden-box settings are retained for switching back. Reset any custom cut size on a system panel before generating production output.

The cut list, 3D, build guide, STEP and workshop list use the same system model. The build guide separately shows panel preparation, cabinet assembly, runner installation, box assembly on the workbench, front fitting, then drawer insertion and adjustment. Install front connectors and runners with the actual fittings and manufacturer template. Missing hole coordinates are listed as manual installation; no holes are invented. The shopping list combines identical articles and states included parts. Unknown hardware prices remain unknown.

Push drawers and drop-down flaps

Choose Push to open under Open with for the cabinet or a selected drawer group or drop-down flap. Follow cabinet inherits the cabinet default. Use Per drawer front to override each actual drawer front; Follow drawer group restores the group setting. Individual choices survive changes to the cabinet default. Undo restores the change. In older projects the cabinet setting applied only to doors. Choose Push to open again to include drawers and flaps. If your cabinet has one drawer block, Set runner type to Side selects side runners and switches off tilting and heavy-duty runners. Then choose Push to open if the other dimensions fit. With multiple drawer blocks this button is absent because they share runner settings. The selected push drawer shows the runner length and article to buy, matching the shopping list and assembly guide.

Wooden drawers use side-mounted Hettich KA 4532 Push to open slides without tilting or heavy-duty runners. The app automatically selects the longest fitting length from 300 to 700 mm. The 350 mm version is article 9114282. The box is exactly as long as the slide and 25.4 mm narrower than the compartment. Net depth from the front reference must be at least slide length plus 4 mm. An overlay front sits 4 mm in front of the cabinet. Box width is limited to 550 mm, with cabinet walls at least 16 mm thick and box sides at least 14 mm thick and tall enough for the 46 mm profile. An existing custom box depth remains stored as an upper limit. Rails at every position are not implemented for push drawers; that combination is disabled with a reason. With push drawers only, the existing fields show the manufacturer dimensions and cannot be edited freely. Other drawers retain their own construction.

A suitable drop-down flap uses Salice Pacta Push with DPMSNG and adhesive striker DP38XX91. Supported fronts are overlay flaps hinged at the bottom on the cabinet base, with a full panel above, height 280 to 400 mm, thickness 16 to 28 mm, width up to 900 mm and weight 1.5 to 9.5 kg. Within these limits, the app selects Smove from a conservative subset of the manufacturer charts. Not every combination within the overall height and weight range fits this selection. Unsuitable choices are disabled with one reason. Bottom overlay becomes 17 mm; every output uses the new front size. The cabinet choice under Open with shows the cabinet setting even when a front overrides it. The actual flap position determines push compatibility. A regular flap remains overlay when the cabinet is set to Inset. A truly inset Gola flap shows its reason at the flap; Make this flap overlay makes only this flap overlay. You can then choose push opening if the other dimensions fit. Pacta replaces the piano hinge, chains, separate flap stays and magnetic catches. The 3D path and hardware symbols are schematic; installation follows the manufacturer template.

These push-operated fronts have no handles in the drawing, 3D or shopping list. Prices remain unknown without a price source. The Pacta list states which hinges, plates, screws and Smove are included; do not order them twice. HTML and PDF share dimension figures and assembly order: prepare loose panels, assemble the cabinet, fit hardware, fit fronts, adjust, then position. Mark manufacturer drilling with the actual fittings and template; STEP and the workshop list state manual installation and contain no invented slide or Pacta holes. JSON and Zaaglab STEP retain individual choices.

Routed J-pull

Choose Grip in the front under Open with, then Routed J-pull under Shape. Choose Grip edge: Automatic, Top, Bottom or Side. The side is opposite the hinges and follows hinge changes. Both leaves of a door pair use their opening edges. Automatic chooses the side if the horizontal pull falls outside 900 to 1200 mm above the floor. Individual door choices remain; Follow cabinet restores the cabinet choice.

Fingers enter the recessed band from the front and hook behind the lip. Profile zaaglab-j-voor-39-r6-v3 applies only to straight 22 mm MDF fronts: rear strip 5 mm, groove 12 mm with R6 bottom, lip 5 mm, 39 mm from edge to groove bottom, lip height 8 mm and edge rounding R1.5. The open band extends from 0 to 31 mm from the edge; the lip from 31 to 39 mm. The groove matches the CMT 199.120.11. Old J-profiles receive these dimensions with 22 mm MDF. With another thickness or material the J-pull is disabled with an explanation and the cut list remains usable. Hinge holes must stay clear of the band.

The guide has five bench steps with a dimensioned technical figure for each: marking and test piece, band routing, groove routing on the router table, rounding, sanding and painting. Lay the front flat, visible face up, to rout the band with a router, straight bit and parallel guide: 31 mm wide and 17 mm deep from the visible face in several passes, leaving a 5 mm rear strip. For the groove, stand the front on its chosen edge on the router table, rear face against a tall fence, with a pressure board or featherboard. Use CMT 199.120.11 (Ø12, R6, cutting length 35, overall length 80, shank 12 mm). Set the axis 11 mm from the rear face and raise the bit in passes to 39 mm above the table. The bit travels through the open band and cuts only the final 8 mm under the lip; the Ø12 shank fits in the band. A tall door with a side pull stands on its long edge: provide infeed and outfeed support (roller stand or second person). The shopping list includes the exact bit, router table and tall fence under tools with unknown prices. Drawing, 3D, STEP, workshop list and guide share profile dimensions; the cut list retains gross front sizes.

Chamfered grip edge

Choose Grip in the front under Open with for the cabinet or a selected door. Choose Grip edge: Automatic (default), Top, Bottom or Side, and adjust Removal dimension if needed; it starts at 10 mm. Automatic uses each leaf’s height above the floor, including the plinth and upper row: below 900 mm top, above 1200 mm bottom, and side if the leaf spans the whole zone. Otherwise the horizontal edge closest to 1000 mm wins. The hint shows the result immediately, including for a selected door. Side is opposite the hinges and moves when you change them. Both leaves of a pair have their grip edges at the centre gap. Existing fixed top or bottom settings remain unchanged. You cut it with a 45° chamfer bit. On melamine or chipboard the core shows afterwards: choose MDF or plywood, or finish the edge. The dimension must be positive, no more than 16.15 mm and less than the front thickness and height. Without a valid dimension or with a hinge conflict, the regular handle remains. Choose a smaller removal dimension. Individual door settings remain; Follow cabinet restores the cabinet opening method. Individual edge dimensions stay saved. You can undo changes.

The info button beside Grip edge shows the section with front thickness, removal in both directions, remaining face edge and angle. For a side edge you also see access between the face edges and the larger space behind the chamfers, with the adjacent door closed. A carcass or centre stile can restrict the space behind. Rear space does not prove your fingers fit through the opening. Try gripping with the adjacent door closed. The workbench figure shows the back, so left and right are mirrored relative to the fitted door. A side edge is chamfered over its full height. Use a 45° chamfer bit. Lacquer the grip edge without banding. Try it on a scrap first.

The drawing and 3D show the grip edge without a bar handle. The assembly guide first shows each loose front with its machined edge. After hanging, check each door for gaps, access and free movement. Then position the cabinet. The shopping list counts only the regular hinges. STEP retains the chamfer and hinge holes; JSON and Zaaglab-STEP retain your choices. The gross front size stays unchanged. Drawers and special fronts keep their own operation.

Opening a door without a handle

In Doors and drawer fronts, choose Handle, Push to open, Grip in the front or Grip profile in cabinet under Open with. This is independent of inset or overlay. The cabinet setting is the default; supported front types depend on the method. Select a door to make an individual choice; Follow cabinet restores inheritance. Individual choices are retained when the cabinet default changes. If fronts use different opening methods, the collapsed row shows Opening: mixed and neither cabinet button is pressed. Undo restores the previous setting.

Hinged doors: Hettich Magnet. Drawers: Hettich KA 4532. Drop-down flaps: Salice Pacta. Suitable push hardware follows each front. Press the free bottom corner. Sliding doors, pull-outs, corner and special fronts retain their own opening method. Unsuitable push choices for drawers and drop-down flaps are disabled with a short reason. An unsupported door shows the reason beside the setting. Cut sizes do not change. The drawing and 3D omit the handle only on the push-operated door. Opener and counterplate are shown as hardware; the opener is schematic and does not imply unverified product dimensions.

The shopping list counts one Hettich Magnet opener 9089605 (set) per door leaf, with Surface adapter (base and top, included in set 9089605) and Adhesive counterplate 9090869 (included in set 9089605), plus Unsprung concealed hinges, without self-closing or soft-close in the correct overlay or inset version. Adapter and counterplate are included in the set; do not order twice. Unknown prices stay unknown. The HTML and PDF guide first covers fitting hinges and push hardware, then hanging and adjusting the door and installing the cabinet. Hettich Magnet 9089605: adapter on the bottom or fixed shelf opposite the free bottom corner; adhesive counterplate 9090869 on the door. Determine fixing holes on site following the manufacturer. STEP contains no mounting holes for this set. Hinge cup holes are retained. The export message and workshop list state this manual mounting requirement. JSON and Zaaglab STEP retain the choice when read back.

Handle profile in the cabinet

Choose Grip profile in cabinet under Open with for the cabinet or a selected front. This works for hinged doors, drawers and a drop-down flap. The model uses Emuca Gola-E: an L profile at the top and C profiles between drawers. The grip zone is 37 mm at the top and 40 mm between fronts. This space replaces the normal gap, so it is not deducted twice from front height. Unavailable combinations cannot be selected; the button gives a short reason. An invalid import remains editable; the stop notice and its cause stay visible in 3D too. For an invalid imported choice, Remove grip profiles removes the handle profile setting so you can continue editing the design.

With inset fronts, the outer frame stays intact. The profile runs inside the compartment behind the front; the top and front rail sit further back where needed. Only a divider crossed by the profile receives a notch. With overlay fronts, affected sides and dividers get the dimensioned notch: L 57.5 × 24 mm R11 or C 70 × 24 mm R11. STEP contains the same contour. An inset drop-down flap uses a custom piano hinge detail on its visible face and the bottom panel front end edge, with the knuckle in the lower gap. The HTML and PDF guide covers loose parts first, then the carcass, profiles and hardware, fronts, adjustment and installation.

The shopping list counts each line once, with steel brackets 8923405 and aluminium end caps 8901462/8901562 (L) or 8901662 (C). Cut length is the clear width minus 3 mm for two 1.5 mm caps. Stock lengths are 2350 and 3900 mm. Unknown prices stay unknown. The workshop list states the profile and manual mounting; no unverified bracket holes are exported. The 3D profile band is a labelled envelope, not an exact aluminium section.

Finding drawer box options

Drawer box and slides starts with Slide type, Box front, Bottom mounting and Bottom thickness. Wooden runners determine the bottom mounting themselves. Other box dimensions, groove and rebate dimensions, clearance, heavy-duty slides, tilting and grid settings sit under More drawer box options. Open that row to change them. Box thickness and Bottom thickness are here beside their material choices.

Box and bottom materials

In Drawer box and slides, choose Drawer box material for the sides, box back and optional separate front piece. Same as carcass follows the carcass material. Under Drawer bottom material, Same as back panel follows the cabinet back panel material. These choices apply to all drawers in this cabinet. The front uses the setting under Fronts. The carcass, wooden runners and tilting structure do not follow the box material.

The lists show project sheets first, then the library, including your own materials. Box and bottom thickness keep their existing behaviour. If no sheet is available for the chosen material and thickness, a message appears by the drawer box. Choose an available combination; the material is not silently replaced. The collapsed row names a different box or bottom material.

Materials chosen per part in the cutting list keep priority. Different material in the cutting list names the affected parts. Use drawer box material or Use drawer bottom material makes only those differing box parts or bottoms follow the group choice again. Other overrides remain. You can reverse this in one step with Undo. For drawers inside a pantry pull-out, follow the existing link to that pull-out and choose the material there.

Buy the hardware before you cut

Doors

Prefer watching? The video Cup hinges on the 32 mm system shows where every hole goes.

You add a door to a compartment with + Door. For one door over several compartments, tap a neighbouring compartment as well: the selection fills itself up to the smallest rectangle of whole compartments, also across a shelf or divider of a higher level (for instance a top compartment plus the column of shelves below it). The palette shows how many compartments and how big the rectangle is, and below that 1 door or 2 doors, the choice Overlay, Inset or Sliding, and Start over to start over. On a computer you can also add a compartment further away with Shift. Tapping a chosen compartment again removes it, unless the rest is then no longer a rectangle: Without this compartment the selection is no longer a rectangle.

A door is its own layer in front of the layout: the shelves and dividers behind it stay and remain visible. Tap the door to select it; the compartments behind it get a dotted outline, the column next to the drawing (on a phone the strip below it) holds Front, Hinges, Doors (one or two), Shelves behind it, Change compartments and Remove door. A Door card (badge This door, with the size) appears at the top of the sidebar with the finer settings, such as the number of hinges and their position. Change compartments puts the door back into the selection mode with its compartments preselected; tap compartments to add or remove them and choose Done. Remove door removes only the door, the layout behind it stays. Shelves behind it hides the doors and selects the first compartment behind them straight away: there + Shelf adds a shelf, and you remove a shelf by tapping anywhere on its line and choosing Remove shelf. Hide doors at the top does the same; the palette then tells you for such a compartment which door it sits behind and offers Show the door.

If you later move a shelf or divider so that a door no longer covers whole compartments, or two doors touch, the tool blocks nothing: the door gets a red dotted outline and the banner reports it, with a Change compartments button. With an inset door no shelf or divider may cross the door edge (it cannot be set back halfway): 2 inset door with a shelf or divider crossing the door edge. Extend the divider or choose overlay.

Overlay or inset is chosen under Front in the column next to the drawing. If drawers sit behind the door, inset is not possible: the door is overlay and the drawers become inset. The column says so below the choice, and the card too: 2 drawers behind it become inset. Sliding is possible; see Sliding doors.

With an inset door the row Half over the divider appears with four switches (left, right, top, bottom). With an inset front the carcass stays visible. On an edge that borders a divider or shelf you can still let the front run half over that divider, so the gap to the neighbouring front equals the gap size. An edge against the carcass is greyed out. On such an edge the door grows by half the panel thickness minus half the gap; the column next to the drawing, the parts list, the drawing and the 3D view show that larger size. The same row sits in the Drawer card for an inset drawer stack. If an inset front without such an edge borders an overlay front (or a front with a hybrid edge), the tool reports: Note: the fronts are not all set the same way. On 2 edge an inset front borders an overlay front, so the gap there becomes 1/2" instead of 1/8".

Overlay

The door sits in front of the carcass and covers the side. This is the ordinary kitchen way: easier, because small inaccuracies in the carcass do not show.

Inset

The door sits inside the carcass, flush with the front. Nicer, but far stricter: the carcass must be square and the gap all round must be right. Inset: sits behind a door

Hinge left

Which side the door hinges on; in the Door card this is called Hinge. Two doors makes two that meet in the middle.

Hinge positions

In the Door card, below the count: per hinge the hole number in the row, plate (the mounting plate centre from the bottom of the side) and cup (the boring height of the cup from the bottom of the door; same centreline). Per hinge the hole number in the row, the height of the mounting plate centre from the bottom of the side, and the boring height of the cup from the bottom of the door (same centreline). Auto puts the outer hinges 60 to 100 mm from the door edge (Hettich) and spreads the rest evenly; a hinge gives way to a shelf. The arrows move a hinge one hole. A badge says what is in the way: 'on a shelf' (plate and arm collide with a shelf) or 'outside 60 to 100' (no free hole in the band; the hinge sits on the nearest free hole). The drawing shows the side from inside and the door from the back, so for the left door the row is on the left and the cups are on the right. ▲ and ▼ move a hinge one hole; Back to auto restores the automatic positions. A badge on a shelf or outside 60 to 100 says what is in the way. The i-button shows the side panel from inside and the back of the door with all dimensions. The hole row itself is set under Shelf clearance: First hole and Row from front edge; Cup distance K is under Doors and drawer fronts; empty means the factory default (9.5, 37 and 5 mm).

Doors meet

Only with two doors, in the Door card. Centre gives two equally wide doors. If a divider behind the doors is off-centre, choose On the divider: the gap then lands exactly on that divider and each door gets its own width. With Custom you type the width of the Left door; the right one follows. The bar above the door shows both widths, and the cutting list gets two door rows.

Gap size

Sits in the Cabinet card in the row Doors and drawer fronts (fold it open; closed, the row shows the gap and overlay or inset), so it is reachable without a door; it applies to doors and drawer fronts alike. The visible gap between all fronts: between two doors, between drawer fronts and as the edge gap on each side of the carcass. Default 3 mm. This one number sets the reveal pattern of the whole cabinet: two doors in one compartment are each half a gap plus half a panel thickness narrower than the half, a front against the carcass sits the gap back from the outside, and between a door and a drawer front above or next to it exactly the gap remains.

Gap to carcass edge

Under Custom gaps in the same group, together with Centre gap, Gap (inset) and Gap between drawer fronts: How far an overlay front stays back from the outside of the carcass. Empty = the gap size (field Gap size above, default 3 mm); 0 = the front covers the side panel to the edge. For all fields there: Empty = follows the gap size above; filled in = a deviation for this cabinet.

Gap (inset)

The gap all round on an inset door. Too tight and the door binds in damp weather; too wide and it looks sloppy.

Centre gap

The gap between two doors meeting in the middle, and between two fronts over a shared divider or shelf; empty = the gap size.

You do not work out the overlay of an overlay front yourself: at the carcass it is the panel thickness minus the gap, over a shared divider or shelf half the thickness minus half the gap. So the gap is the same everywhere.

If you mix overlay and inset, the tool asks whether that is intended: There is already an overlay door in this cabinet (sometimes required because there is a drawer behind it). Do you really want to mix overlay and inset doors?

To set all fronts the same in one go, use the Cabinet card, row Doors and drawer fronts: under All fronts choose Overlay or Inset. The choice per door or drawer is then cleared; afterwards you can still change a single front. Sliding doors stay sliding, and a door with drawers behind it stays overlay: A door with a drawer behind it stays overlay, so the fronts are not all the same. If the fronts are mixed, the closed row says Mixed and the tool reports at how many edges the gap gets wider, with Fix to compare All fronts overlay and All fronts inset before confirming one with Apply.

Sliding doors

A sliding door is a third choice under Front, next to overlay and inset: Sliding. The same choice sits in the palette when you pick compartments for a new door. A sliding door is always a pair: two panels over one opening, the left in the front lane and the right in the back one. Each door is half the opening plus half the overlap wide. The hinge choices disappear, because a sliding door has no hinges. If you then choose overlay or inset again, your old hinge settings are still there; it stays two doors, and One door makes it one again. Examples in the gallery: Sideboard with sliding doors and Wardrobe with sliding doors.

Below the choice is Guide: Groove, Track or Rollers. What the two doors run in. Groove: two grooves in the panel above and below, deep at the top and shallow at the bottom; cut them with a circular saw and track, or rout them. Track: a double plastic track you screw on, for thin doors; no router needed. Rollers: Hettich SlideLine, screwed on, for doors as thick as the cabinet panels. The default follows your country and the door thickness. The line below says what you get: the fittings or the groove size, the door thickness, the size of the two doors and how far shelves and dividers behind them sit back. They sit back because the tracks take depth at the front; the cut list, the drawing, 3D and the build guide all use that. The panel above and below the opening keeps its full depth, as the tracks go there.

The default depends on your country and the door thickness: thin doors in a track (in the Netherlands the double sliding track from Karwei, in Germany the GAH-Alberts guide track, in the US Knape & Vogt), doors as thick as the cabinet on Hettich SlideLine 16 in the Netherlands and Germany, and in the US in a track for that thickness. A groove always works.

Guide dimensions

A folded block below the line. Empty = the default shown in grey; filled in = your own size for these doors. Which fields appear depends on the guide: always Door thickness and Overlap; with a groove or track From the front; with a groove Groove top and Groove bottom; with a track Track width and Door shorter by; with SlideLine 16 Track depth. With rollers you also choose the System here: SlideLine 1 (thinner, up to 12 kg per door, with cup holes) or SlideLine 16 (18 to 24 mm, 60 kg, screws only).

Pull

Recessed pull (default) or Surface pull. A recessed pull sits in the door, so the doors can pass each other; drill it with a Forstner bit. A surface pull on the back door hits the front door. If you choose a surface pull, the cabinet warns: A surface pull on the back sliding door hits the front door. Choose a recessed pull, or fit it where the front door never goes.

With a drawer behind the door, Sliding stays available; inset is then greyed out: With a drawer behind it, a hinged door is always overlay; sliding is possible. The drawer then also sits back behind the tracks. If it does not fit in the half that one door slid aside leaves free, the cabinet warns: The drawer behind the sliding doors cannot open: a door slid aside leaves 14 1/2" free and the drawer is wider. 3D shows the same: Open all slides only the front door aside, and a wide drawer then hits the other one.

For the other warnings, Go to the cause selects the door and the setting involved: a door too thick or too thin for the track or the rollers, a door heavier than the rollers carry, a groove too deep for the panel, a door that sits too little in the top groove after dropping, an overlap smaller than twice the gap between the doors (Hettich), a recessed pull too deep for a thin door, and a door more than 2.5 times as tall as it is wide. For an excessive groove depth or insufficient overlap, Fix previews a proposal. The dimensions change only with Apply; Undo restores them. In the US: Hettich roller fittings for cabinet doors are not sold in US home centers: specialist supplier or online.

The cut list shows two doors without hinges, in their own thickness. With a groove, the panel above and below the opening gets a note with the two grooves: width, depth and distance from the front. What do I need lists the recessed pulls and, per guide, the tracks in the store length or the SlideLine tracks with a fitting set per door, with the stores in your country. The build guide has its own steps: Grooves for the sliding doors (on the loose panels, before the carcass), Prepare the sliding doors (recessed pull and rollers on the workbench), Tracks for the sliding doors and Fit the sliding doors: the back door first, lift it in at the top and swing the bottom in.

Drawers

Prefer watching? The video Drawer slides explained walks through the slide types and their sizes.

A drawer consists of a box (two sides, a front and back panel, a bottom) and a front you see. The tool calculates all those sizes, but only if you give it the right clearance.

The settings live in two places in the sidebar, and the badge on the heading says what they apply to. The row Drawer box and slides in the Cabinet card (badge Whole cabinet on the card) appears as soon as the cabinet has drawers, closed by default with a summary line, and holds everything that applies to all drawers of the cabinet: the top view, slide type, clearance, box sizes, bottom and box front. The Drawer card (badge This drawer stack, with the compartment size) appears at the top of the sidebar as soon as you tap a drawer stack in the drawing and holds what applies per stack: number, distribution, heights and front; on a phone the page scrolls to it after the tap. At the bottom of that card is a link to the row.

Slide type

Side is the ordinary side-mount slide, Roller is the roller slide with plastic wheels under the box (three-quarter extension, the cheapest), Undermount is the concealed type you see in kitchens, Wood is a runner without metal: the drawer bottom is wider than the box and slides in a groove in the wall. Each type wants a different clearance; with wood the app works it out itself.

Heavy-duty slides

Only with Side: No (default) or Yes. Heavy-duty slides are side-mount ball-bearing slides like the regular ones, but thicker and taller. They carry more (the Hettich KA 4620 90 kg or about 200 lb per pair, a regular ball-bearing slide around 45 kg or 100 lb) and they come longer, for deep drawers such as in a garage cabinet, workbench or camper van. Regular ball-bearing slides go up to about 28". The drawer box gets narrower on each side so the thicker slide fits; the cut list takes that into account. They cost more, well over twice a regular slide. The rating on the package is per pair, and long slides are usually rated lower than short ones. With Yes a line below the choice says how thick and tall the heavy-duty slide is and how much narrower the box gets per side; the summary of Drawer box and slides says Heavy-duty slides and Box clearance per side gets its own value (empty means 19 mm), separate from the regular slide. In the cut list the box bottom and back get narrower; What do I need lists heavy-duty drawer slides (set) with the price and the stores for heavy-duty slides, and the assembly guide says so too. If the drawers get so deep that the slides are longer than a regular ball-bearing slide (about 700 mm, 28 in. in the US), then with No a line appears below the choice and an issue. Fix previews using Choose heavy-duty; Apply confirms that choice. You may ignore it, for instance if you use a wooden runner or your own solution; What do I need then lists the slides at the price of a heavy-duty slide and says how long regular ones go. If you choose heavy-duty and the slide is longer than home centers sell (700 mm in the Netherlands), an issue says it will be a specialist supplier or online. In Germany home centers sell regular slides up to 550 mm; above that What do I need says so. Heavy-duty slides come with and without a lock. A lock in the closed position does not belong in a cabinet or pull-out pantry: the lever sits at the front of the rail, behind the front panel, and you cannot reach it when the cabinet is closed. So buy them without.

Tilts when pulled out

Only with Side: No (default), All or From a height. With From a height, Tilt from appears: A drawer tilts if the bottom of its opening is at or above this height, measured from the bottom of the cabinet (for a cabinet on the floor, that is the floor). Below it they stay ordinary drawers. When you choose this, the field shows the bottom of the top drawer; change it to what you can still look into comfortably. As long as tilting is on, Per drawer sits below the dimensions, with Normal or Tilts for each drawer of the selected drawer block (with From a height followed by the bottom of each drawer): For each drawer of the selected drawer block: Normal or Tilts. A tilting drawer gets tilt strips and is narrower than a normal one by the strip and a little play on each side; the fronts stay the same size. If you pick what the setting above already says, the drawer follows that setting again. That way a tall cabinet gets ordinary drawers low down and tilting ones higher up; everything below about tilting then applies only to the drawers that tilt. If the cabinet hangs on the wall and has ordinary drawers, a point of attention says so, with the button Make the drawers tilt. For drawers high in a cabinet: pull the drawer all the way out and it tilts forward so you can look in. On the drawer member of an ordinary full-extension ball-bearing slide sits a tilt strip on each side, which stays level; the drawer pivots in it on an aluminium tube, 20 below the top of the strip. At the back, under the drawer, a connecting strip joins the two tilt strips. It is also the stop: fully out, the tilted drawer rests on its bevelled top. Inside the cabinet the drawer sits level on two support strips under the bottom, which slide over a slide strip along each wall (the lowest drawer over a thin strip). When pulling out, you keep the drawer level yourself for the last part. The box is a little shorter than the slide, so fully out it tilts clear of the front above. The contents slide forward: give the drawer dividers. No load capacity has been measured. Tilting only works with a side-mounted slide. If a drawer tilts, a line says how far the front drops, how long the slide is and how deep the box, and a second one how much narrower the box gets per side, how wide the slide strip is and how much shorter the box is than the slide; Below that are Tilt angle and Tilt strip. The i-buttons show the drawer from the side, in the cabinet and tilted, and a section through one side, with this project's measurements. The cut list gets Tilt strip, Connecting strip, Support strip under the drawer and for each drawer Slide strip or, under the lowest drawer, Strip; What do I need lists the slides as full extension, plus aluminium tube Ø 8 × 1 (pivots), two-part epoxy, screws 3.5 × 30 (connecting strips), screws 3.5 × 48 (support strips under the drawers) and the screws for the slide strips; the strip is only glued. The assembly guide fits the slide strips together with the hardware on the loose sides and dividers, below the cabinet member of the slide, with the tilt strip itself as a jig and two sheets of paper, in eight numbered actions with a drawing of the slide strip and the check dimension from the bottom edge (so the strip step comes first), and glues the strips onto the loose compartment floor. At the bench, each with a dimensioned drawing, there are also Tilt strips and slides, Pivot and support strips on the drawer box and Bevel the connecting strip. In the standing cabinet the tilt strips go in first (Tilt strips into the cabinet, with a sheet of paper to check the clearance), then the drawers themselves and finally Tilt test. Several drawers stacked in one compartment also work, as in the template Wall cabinet with tilting drawers. Several tilting drawers stacked in one compartment is possible, for example in a wall unit just for drawers. Pull them out one at a time: fully out, the tilted drawer hangs in front of the drawer below, which then cannot open, and two tilted at once run into each other. Each box can be as tall as the opening allows; each drawer slides on its own slide strip, the lowest on a thin strip on the floor. The line below the choice then says to pull them out one at a time, with an i-button that draws the upper one tilted in front of the closed drawer below. If a divider has slide strips at the same height on both sides, the assembly guide says to place the pocket holes of the second strip between those of the first. If too little box is left for the support strips, it says so too. If tilting drawers sit behind a door, a message says the door must open at least 90° and the hinge arm must not stick into the opening. The drawers in the hidden pull-out of a wall-hung corner cabinet can tilt too, by the same rules (see Examples).

Groove

Only with Wood: Strips (two strips of thin sheet on the wall, only a saw needed) or Routed (a groove cut with a router). No slides needed: the bottom slides in a groove in the wall. Opens about 2/3, for light contents. The bottom then always sits under the box and sticks out on each side; the bottom mounting choice, the Box clearance per side field and Space above the box disappear, because they follow from the groove. The strips appear in the cut list as Runner strip; What do I need lists staples or brads for the strips and paraffin or candle wax instead of drawer slides. If a drawer is wider than deep, a line says it binds more easily.

Strip thickness

The thickness of the strips; with Routed the field is called Groove depth. Strips: the thickness of the strips, and so how far the bottom sticks out on each side. Empty = the bottom thickness, so bottom and strips come from one sheet. A 1/2" carcass with 1/4" strips adds up to 3/4" per side, the thickness of a normal wall: that way you build the whole cabinet from thin sheet. Routed: the depth of the groove; at most a third of the wall thickness, otherwise the wall gets too weak. A divider with drawers on both sides loses a groove twice. Below it Groove height: How high the bottom of the groove sits above the bottom of the opening (default 30). Every drawer has its groove at the same place in its opening: with equal drawers the grooves sit on a fixed spacing and the drawers fit each other's place. Each box also loses that much inside height. Below that also Play in the groove and Side clearance (default 1). Each i-button shows the same section at the wall with its own measurement in orange; with strips it also shows the wall and wall plus strip together. If the carcass is thinner than 5/8", a line below the explanation adds up wall plus strip; with a 1/2" carcass and a different strip thickness the button Strips 18 mm sets the strips to 1/4". A groove deeper than a third of the wall thickness and a bottom strip under 10 mm give a warning with a button that sets the measurement back.

Split the shelf

Only appears with overlay fronts when an overlay door borders the drawer stack above or below over the same shelf. Half and half (default): door and outer drawer front each cover half the shelf thickness minus half the gap, so that drawer front is taller than the others. Door covers shelf: the door takes the whole shelf (panel thickness minus gap) and all drawer fronts are the same height. If there is no door but an open compartment or a trim shelf, the button reads Front covers shelf and the drawer front itself covers the shelf. The i-button shows a cross-section of both; the line below gives the front heights and what the door gains, and the Door section says so too: This door covers the whole shelf towards the adjacent drawer stack (+door inch), so the drawer fronts stay the same height. Setting: Split the shelf on the drawer stack.

Box height

Per drawer stack: Full, Half, One third or Custom (then a field in mm appears). Height of the box sides, back and front piece. Full: the opening minus the space above the box. Lower (half, one third or a custom size) for a drawer holding something tall, like a waste bin; the front stays the same size. Minimum 40 mm. Sides, back and front piece get lower; front, bottom and slides do not change.

Hinges per door

In the Door section: Auto or your own number per door. Auto follows the Blum and Hettich tables by door height: up to 900 mm 2, up to 1600 mm 3, up to 2000 mm 4, above that 5. Pick a number yourself for a heavy or wide door. Counted in the shopping list. The Auto button shows the number the table gives for this door. Both manufacturers' tables are in Standard dimensions.

Drawer member on the box side

Side-mount slides only: Bottom, Middle or Top. Where the drawer member of a side-mount slide sits on the side of the box. Hettich specifies the bottom, Accuride the centre line; check the datasheet of your slide. Determines the height of the cabinet member on the wall (see Mounting dimensions at the drawer stack).

Slide mounting dimensions

Expandable block at the selected drawer stack: per drawer the height of the cabinet member above the compartment floor, the height of the drawer member above the box bottom, the distance behind the cabinet front and the nominal slide length; for an undermount slide the top of the drawer bottom and the first hole. Brand-independent dimensions (axis and front edge); the hole pattern is in the datasheet of your slide. The i-button lists the manufacturer figures this rests on, and the drawing at Box depth shows the axis as a dashed line.

Box clearance per side

The space per side between the drawer box and the compartment. This number is in the datasheet of your slides; with side-mount ball-bearing slides it is 12.5 or 12.7 mm per side, depending on the brand. box width = compartment minus twice this clearance.

Box depth

How deep the box becomes. Usually slightly less than the cabinet depth, so the drawer runs free.

Bottom mounting

How the drawer bottom sits in the box. Between: between the sides and against the back. Applied: screwed under the box, full outside size. In groove: in a groove in the sides and back, a distance above the bottom edge. In rebate: in a rebate, flush with the bottom edge. With In groove three fields appear: Groove depth (How deep the bottom sits in the sides and back of the box. Empty = the groove depth of the corner joint. 6 to 8 mm is common.), Groove width (How wide the groove for the bottom is. Empty = exactly the bottom thickness. A little wider slides in more easily, e.g. 4 mm for a 3 mm bottom. The cut size of the bottom does not change.) and Distance to the bottom edge (How far the groove sits above the bottom edge of the side. Does not change the cut size, but does change the free height in the box. Usually 10 mm.); with In rebate the fields Drawer bottom rebate (How wide the rebate in the sides and back is; the bottom sits flush with the bottom edge. Usually 8 mm.) and Extra rebate depth (How much taller the rebate is than the bottom is thick. 0 = the bottom sits flush with the lower edge; with e.g. 2 mm it sits 2 mm recessed. The cut size does not change, the free height in the box does.). Below the choice you see what the bottom becomes and how much free height remains in the box. Between and In groove calculate exactly as before; Applied and In rebate are new.

Space above the box

How much lower the box is than the opening, so it runs freely on the slides. Empty = 12 mm; with a roller slide 16 mm (the drawer member runs over the cabinet member, together 16 mm high, Hettich); with undermount slides often more, see the datasheet of your slide.

Gap between drawer fronts

Sits under Custom gaps in the group Doors and drawer fronts. The gap between two drawer fronts above each other; empty = the gap size Gap size above it. Drawer fronts otherwise follow the same overlay rule as doors: against the carcass the panel thickness minus the gap, over a shared shelf or divider half the thickness minus half the gap, and nothing on the side of an open remainder.

Space behind the box

Free space behind the box, so the drawer closes without touching the back panel. Usually 10 mm. Empty at Box depth means: the shelf depth minus this space.

Box front

Front is the box front or Own front piece. With its own front piece the box is a closed case with the front fitted in front of it as a separate panel; that lets you adjust the front independently of the box. Without a front piece the front itself is the front of the box. With its own front piece each drawer gets an extra part Drawer front piece, the same size as the drawer back, and the bottom runs between front and back piece (with Between two box thicknesses shorter). The diagram and the 3D view show the front piece as its own part behind the front; the choice applies to all drawers of the cabinet.

Tap a drawer and the column next to the drawing (on a phone the strip below it) shows the front sizes, Front and Remove drawers. With More drawers and Fewer drawers there you change the number of drawers in a compartment; Number of drawers in the Drawer card at the top of the sidebar does the same. The column points you there with To drawer settings. The tool spreads the heights, unless you choose otherwise under Distribution.

Equal

All drawers equally tall; together they fill the compartment.

Increasing

The lower drawers taller than the upper ones; together they fill the compartment.

Fixed

Each drawer gets the height you enter at Height per drawer, for instance three drawers of 165 mm. What is left over you choose at Space left over.

Manual

Each drawer its own height, in one field per drawer.

Grid

Each drawer is 1, 2 or 3 slots tall. Drawers of the same height can be swapped later. How that works is below.

With Fixed and Manual you choose under Space left over what happens to the space that is left. Last drawer makes the last drawer tall enough to fill the compartment (that field is then read-only). Open below leaves the space below the drawers open, Open above above them; the tool says how much stays open. Such an open remainder is an ordinary empty compartment: if you want a shelf in it, split the compartment with + Shelf.

The heights are opening heights by default: the size of the hole the box goes into. The fronts follow from that plus the overlay at the edges, so a front against the carcass or over a shared shelf becomes larger than the opening behind it. If you want all fronts the same height, set Height of to Front: the typed heights and Equal then apply to the fronts, and the openings behind them get smaller by that overlay. The line below the fields always shows the other size (Fronts 6 1/2 | 6 1/2 | 7 1/4 inch or Openings 6 1/2 | 6 1/2 | 7 1/4 inch), and the i-button shows both in a drawing.

If you enter more than fits in the compartment, the tool resets the value to what does fit and says below the fields how much too much it was. If you later make the cabinet lower, so that the drawers no longer fit, it says so above the drawing: 2 compartment with drawers taller than the compartment (21 1/8" in 18 3/4").

With Grid (drawers on the 32 mm grid) every drawer is a whole number of slots tall. Per drawer you choose 1×, 2× or 3×; the front size is next to it. A front is the number of slots times the height per slot, minus one gap, so all drawers of the same height are identical and you can swap them later, also between two blocks side by side if they are equally wide. The tool assigns the slots itself, the largest at the bottom; if you choose yourself, Distribute automatically appears to go back. Make a drawer taller and it takes its slot from the other drawers, and the cabinet keeps its height. Height of disappears with the grid: the grid sets front and opening together.

If the drawers do not fill the compartment exactly, a message appears below the drawers and above the drawing, with Fix to preview making the compartment as tall as the drawers together. Check the effect and confirm with Apply: the space goes to or comes from the compartment above, and if there is no neighbour the cabinet becomes lower or taller (Before and After show the dimensions in the preview). If a whole slot is left over, Bottom drawer 21 ft× is also offered: the bottom drawer takes the remaining slots. If the drawers need more slots than there are, for example three drawers of which you set one to 2×, the message also offers the button One drawer fewer: 1× | 2×. It removes a 1× drawer and the others keep their height; so three slots hold one 1× and one 2× drawer. In the group Drawer box and slides the grid adds two choices for the whole cabinet: Height per slot (The height of one slot for drawers on the grid: 3, 4 or 5 times 32 mm. A single drawer is one slot tall, a double one two. Because a slot is a multiple of 32, every slide lands on the holes of the hole row once the bottom one does. The middle choice is close to the grid of kitchen fronts and leaves room for a 3 to 4 inch box even in a single drawer; the smallest suits a small piece with shallow drawers. Applies to all grid drawers in this cabinet.) and Slides at every slot (Fits a pair of slides in the cabinet at every slot, also where there is no drawer yet, so you can move drawers later without drilling. Every box is then as tall as a single box, also behind a double front, or it would run into the slide above. The extra slides are in What do I need.). If the hole row is on and the slides sit next to the holes, Fix lets you compare a matching first hole (First hole at 5/8") with Turn off the hole row. Each valid choice shows its effect and has its own Apply. With the grid the cut list holds a Spacer strip: a strip of carcass sheet as wide as a slot minus the height of the rail (82.3 mm for 128 mm slots) and as long as the rail. In the build guide you lay it on the rail below and set the next rail on it, so every rail sits exactly one slot higher. The drilling plan of the side shows the holes at every slot, also where no drawer starts now: drill them right away, and a drawer can move later without drilling in the finished cabinet.

The cabinet in 3D

Above the drawing sit three tabs: Front, Side and 3D. In 3D each panel is a real board with thickness, in the colour of its material, with a handle on every door and drawer. This is the place to check that drawers and doors sit where you meant them, before you cut. Drag sideways to turn the cabinet on its axis; on release it snaps to a 15-degree step. Drag up and down to tilt the view: down shows more from above, up more from below, stopping just short of straight above or below. Dragging diagonally does both at once. The Rotate left and Rotate right buttons turn an eighth of a turn, Reset view sets it straight again, seen from above and fitted to the view. With From below you look from 25 degrees below in one go, useful for the underside of shelves and the plinth; the same button is then called From above.

The slider below the drawing pulls the cabinet apart, from Assembled to Exploded; the percentage next to it says how far. Dotted lines show where each panel comes from. Numbers turns the number badges on or off. Tap a panel (or a row in the Parts list below) and it lights up with its size and material; on a computer this already happens as you move over it. If your cabinet has more than one kind of part, chips appear above the view: All, Carcass, Shelves, Doors and Drawers. A chip shows only that group and hides the rest, so you can look at just the drawers, for instance. If the cabinet has a flap, the hardware of that flap is listed below the parts as well, such as lid stays, magnetic catches, a chain or gas struts; point at a row or at the hardware itself and it lights up with its name.

Tap a door, a drawer front or the front strip of a pull-out shelf and it opens; another tap closes it. The part stays selected, with its size and material. A drawer slides out as far as its runner: a ball-bearing or undermount runner all the way, a roller runner about three quarters, a wooden runner about 2/3. A tilting drawer first slides all the way out and then tilts. A door swings 110° on its hinge side, like an ordinary concealed hinge; of two doors each goes to its own side. A downward flap folds 90° on its hinge line and then lies level; a flap that opens upward goes 100° open and then clearly points up, like hardware with a 100° opening stop. The hardware is shown schematically, as in the build guide: the lid stays (cabinet part, arm and flap part; the arm folds as the flap closes) or the chains, the magnetic catches, and for an upward flap the gas struts. A pull-out shelf slides out over the length of its runners, and so does a pull-out pantry. Tapping another part of the pull-out makes it the cabinet you are editing. If there is a pull-out inside the pull-out, a tap on its front slides it out of the front of the outer one; if the outer one is still closed it opens first, and when you close the outer one the inner ones close first. Open all opens everything in the order you would by hand: the doors first, then the drawers from the bottom up; Close all closes everything again, the doors last. A corner cabinet is open when you open 3D. If a part runs into something, both parts turn red and the bottom left of the view says what happens and what you can do, for example: Drawer hits a hinge. Choose zero-protrusion hinges or keep 1" clear per side. If more than one part hits something, tap and 2 more for the next one; the cross hides the message. It stays as long as the problem does, also when you change a size: then you see straight away whether it fits now. When you pull the cabinet apart, open doors swing back and the message goes away. In a row of cabinets only the parts of the cabinet you are editing move, but they can run into a neighbour: Drawer hits the cabinet next to it. Add a filler strip.

Fully pulled apart, a drawer becomes small. Then zoom in: with the Zoom in, Zoom out and Fit buttons at the bottom right of the view, with Ctrl (Cmd on a Mac) plus the scroll wheel towards the spot under your pointer, or on a phone by pinching with two fingers. Up to four times. To move the view, use two fingers, or on a computer drag with Shift held down; dragging without Shift still rotates. Double-click or double-tap fits everything back into view, as do Fit and Reset view. The zoom stays while you edit the cabinet, so you see the effect of a size up close right away. Without Ctrl the wheel simply scrolls the page.

Download image saves the current view as a PNG, without numbers, exactly as you turned and zoomed it. Fullscreen lets the 3D view fill the whole screen; the parts list goes away for the moment. The same button or Escape brings you back. The keyboard works too, see Keyboard shortcuts.

The 3D view needs WebGL, the browser's 3D drawing technique. If your browser will not hand it out (an old graphics card, a setting or an extension), you get the message The 3D view does not work in this browser instead of the cabinet, with a button back to the front view. Everything else keeps working: the front and side views, the cutting diagram, the cutting list and the build manual are drawn in SVG and do not need WebGL.

What hardware you need

Prefer watching? The video From cut list to build manual shows what the guide gives you.

The tool counts the hardware from your design. Counts follow from your cabinet; you choose the exact type. You find it under What do I need.

• hinges, in the variant matching your door type: full overlay, half overlay or inset.
• drawer slides (set), one set per drawer.
• shelf supports, for 2 adjustable shelves.
• cam connectors (Minifix) and dowels 8 mm for fixed shelves, trim shelves and dividers, following the choice Dowels + cam locks or Dowels on the part: per side 2 cam locks up to 600 mm deep and 1 more per 600 mm beyond, plus 1 dowel per side against twisting; with dowels only, the same number of dowels as a guide.
• handles, optional.
• closet rods and rod holders (2 per rod).
• wall anchors (anti-tip), to the wall, into the studs.